
One of the aspects to living in a Latin culture that sometimes takes a bit of getting used to for those from more reserved parts of the world is the touchy-feely nature of greetings. You have to get up close and personal!
In Paraguay that means, as a woman, you get to kiss other women on both cheeks and shake hands with the men (and in more familiar settings, you kiss the men too). The kissing can feel like a bit of an invasion of personal space if you're not used to it. Fortunately, I've had enough cross-cultural experience in different countries to have become accustomed. And in fact, it's one aspect of the culture I really appreciate. I love the fact that you're committing yourself to saying hello to someone enough to actually get that close to them. You're taking a bit more time to greet them than the quick "hi" that would suffice in our cooler climes. It's also very hard to kiss someone with a frown on your face or bitterness in your heart, so for those brief moments you put aside your differences and treat each other as human beings.
It feels like a social leveller somehow - it doesn't matter who you are, or where you're from, whether you're rich, poor, fashionable, frumpy, fat, thin, tall or short. You share the same physical space for a second or two and you can't help but feel some kind of sympathy towards the other person, even if only fleetingly. In a way, you're both being vulnerable, which is a good thing, and also sharing touch, which we all need, but which we in the UK at least, tend to lose out on because of our strict views of personal space.
The kissing is not just something you do the first time you meet, it generally happens every time you see each other, at least on social occasions (it doesn't happen every day at work). It is seen as a slight if you greet one person this way in the presence of another, and fail to give the second person the same consideration. It can prove quite a danger to public relations if you miss someone out. In the three years I've been here, I've never quite managed to feel so comfortable in these social situations as to know exactly what's expected, and you've really got to commit yourself because it's either kiss everyone or kiss no-one... so I tend to wait for someone else to give me a clue, while my default position is usually a big smile and a general, "Hola!"
In the physical act of the kiss, what normally happens is that you both touch fleshy cheek to fleshy cheek. In effect, your cheeks touch and your lips kiss the air. However, there are the people who throw their head so far to the side that they end up offering you their ear rather than their cheek! Then there are those who keep their head still while you do all the moving from one side to the other, rather like a duck. Finally, there are those who actually kiss their lips to your cheek, which leaves your lips kind of hanging in the air, as it were.
But any confusion or awkwardness in these situations pales in comparison to that felt by foreigners new to the country or just visiting. These poor souls are often accosted by Paraguayans and/or long-term ex-pats, who are so used to the custom that they are half way to the visitor's face before the poor thing realises what's going on.
Yet by far the most awkward circumstances I find are those among long-term ex-pats, who are accustomed to greeting nationals in this way, yet are aware that in their home culture, it wouldn't be at all appropriate, and so the question is; do we kiss, hug, shake hands or just give a wave from across the room? More often than not, I find that one person is going for the hug, while the other aims for the kiss. This turns into a cross between a very non-comittal hug, which ends at the cheek, and a rather over-committed kiss, which ends up around about the ear or neck. I have taken to announcing what I'm going to do as I lean in, in an attempt to avoid as much confusion as possible! Thus, on arriving last at a social gathering of ex-pats recently, I announced to the room that I would be doing the Paraguayan kiss and proceeded to make sure I'd "hit" everyone before I sat down to talk. And sometimes, I'll call out "Hug!" as I'm moving in, just so that the other person knows where they stand and what to expect. I've definitely found it the most effective remedy to cut down on those awkward half-hug moments, though I must admit to reserving the strategy for greeting friends, as I imagine those who don't know me so well coming away with a rather bizarre impression of my apparent need to announce all physical actions beforehand!
I'd love to hear any stories you may have of awkward cross-cultural greeting situations!
© Fiona L Cooper 2009